olive's Boozy Lunch of the Week: Les Trois Garcons

It’s not often that the first thing you see in a restaurant is a bulldog in angel wings. Or an alligator sitting next to a monkey wearing a crown. Les Trois Garcons is so full of visual distractions it’s hard to stop your head swivelling from one end of the taxidermy-packed room to the other. There are stuffed birds on the bar and behind glass. Huge chandeliers light up rows of vintage handbags. And dominating the room is a portrait of the three owners, who are also responsible for the adjacent bar and Shoreditch stalwart Lounge Lover.

Opulent room, deeply indulgent food. Bang! The starters menu hits you with not one, but two, foie gras options, of which we choose a rich apple and shallot tart topped with pan-fried foie. This is paired with a Canadian ice cider, its sweetness both complementing the tart and cutting though the rich foie. It’s a generous serving, as is the seared tuna -four fat slices of yellow fin with Szechuan pepper and wasabi adding a little heat.

Main courses are equally decadent with the laksa de poulet et homard being richest of all: a spiced lobster bisque in which sits poached chicken and lobster, glazed lobster claw and boneless chicken wing with won tons. If there weren’t so many eyes watching, you might lick the plate.

Our French waitress is knowledgeable and conspiratorial, urging us to choose the nougat glace a la noix de coco for dessert. It’s good advice: the frozen coconut nougat with passion fruit coulis and lime jelly paired with a delicately sweet Maury is a deliciously light finish.

The new early bird menu is a great-value way to discover this one-of-a kind restaurant, with three courses for just £25 on offer from 6- 7 pm on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdays. Don’t forget to say goodbye to the dog on the way out.

Not one for minimalists: even the tealights wear crowns.

Not a lot of people know that: half of the menu is suitable for anyone who is lactose or gluten intolerant, eg o n the starters menu almond ricotta is made from fresh almonds, the resulting ‘cheese’ has the texture of dairy ricotta, but none of the lactose.

Not to be missed: the table for two underneath the bird cabinet is the owners’ favourite