Things we love:

Beijing’s adopted kebab chuanr - buy it from a street-side grill in the early hours. Dogs dress in coats and shoes, and Superman outfits. For real. Chancing upon some unexpected bars in Beijing’s remaining Hutongs (traditional alleys).

Things we wish we’d known:

Taxis are cheap, and therefore popular – in a city of more than 20 million, this can mean a wait. Be social media savvy and embrace local favourites WeiXin (WeChat) and WeiBo. The Beijing Subway is cheap and expanding rapidly. A pre-pay Yikatong touch card is the way to go, and it also works on the bus. If someone invites you to a 'tea ceremony' then beware - it might be scam and that Oolong is gonna be the priciest you've ever bought.