Things we love:

ALL that wine, even the supermarkets have impressive bottles for cheap. 'Sans Carte' bars - just tell the bartender what you like and let him decide. Real speakeasies: no signs and locked doors. We like a challenge. The taxidermy museum with all sorts of weird animals. Too good. Paris Syndrome: for some Japanese visitors, the dream of Paris never lives up to the reality, and they go home needing counselling.

Things we wish we’d known:

Cabs are near to impossible to hail, even at the taxi rank. Your GCSE French will never be good enough, but manners go a long way. Start in French, and they'll switch. Strangers should be addressed: Monsieur, Madame and Mademoiselle. Old school. Vélib. Cheap and 24hrs. Just don't drink and ride.