Polpo has come to Brighton's seaside and it's done so with all the trappings of a scruffy Venetian wine bar. Part the heavy red velvet curtains and immerse yourself in a kind of enclave of linen-draped lamps, timber flooring, chemistry lab tables and red leather banquettes. Perch on the banquettes under a massive 3-meter skylight and graze on all the fare which typically comes from a bacaro: fried stuffed olives, arancini, flank steak and crostini. Not quite your typical restaurant in an English seaside town with soggy chips on offer and rain-soaked punters, but there are enough of those. Come here for a spritz, a wind down and a 'holiday' on the cheap.