There's something deliciously subversive about the location of sexy subterranean cabaret lounge Volupté, in the heart of the strait-laced legal land around Chancery Lane. While by day barristers go about the business of discouraging mischief, by night it's all about making it, as an ever-changing roster of performers take to the stage as diners tuck into a delicious dinner for an all-in price. In a genius move to cater to the gay crowd (entirely unserved in this part of town) Thursdays have been rechristened Thursgays and gay boys and girls are encouraged to come on down and enjoy acts specially chosen to appeal.

Guests start off with a killer cocktail in the sweetshop-themed BonBon Bar upstairs - the fruity Volupté Sour and classic Old Fashioned were our pick, both superb - before being escorted down to the lounge and your table for the night. Starters and desserts are presented as sharing platters meaning the only choice to make is of main course. If the platters are a little on the small side (a mouthful of each at most, albeit very tasty mouthfuls) it's made up for by substantial main courses which might include succulent marinated shoulder of lamb or beef sirloin in a shallot and Barolo sauce.

The best tables in the house are downstage centre - right in the heart of the action - although those less keen on audience participation might prefer one of the booths set back against the wall. On the night BarCock visited the act was the sensational Lipsinkers, who appear regularly, a performance troupe so bitingly funny he nearly had to be stretchered out at one point he was laughing so hard. All in all Thursgays is a great night out, genuinely different and, at about £60 for meal and the show, not bad value. Treat yourself.

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