Ze dos Bois is at odds with surrounding Bairro Alto, the epicentre for going out. This place is a god send if you're not feeling the hecticness of the party crowds. A dusty staircase leads you past a large gallery on the first floor or you can head up to the main bar on the third. There is a roof terrace, where movies are occasionally projected onto the wall; the roof is lower than the surrounding buildings, so it feels bizarrely like a courtyard, kinda cool. If there is an exhibition in the gallery, you might have to pay a couple of euros to get into the bar, but who doesn't love a culture hit. Everyone is an artist: from the sassy and beautiful girl on the door sketching her sleepy Great Dane, to the bloke who nipped behind the bar to pour our generous beakers of port. 

In the bar, everything is on show, it's like how an awesome house-party should look: the make-shift bar is a fridge behind a trestle table; wires are draped across concrete floors to big speakers; the plaster is chipped. The loos are primitive, but what did you expect? There is a distinct leaning to the left, with wall hangings from revolutionary movements around the world; our arty mate sensed an affiliation with the Occupy movement or the squat artists of Berlin. Whatever that means, it's underground, and we loved it.