This is the cool kids’ hangout in the tenth, though sometimes those cool kids are suit-wearing media types and scary fashion gals. Squeeze into the red leather booths by day and order a steak sandwich or the plat du jour, admiring the tobacco-stained can-can girl wallpaper. The Formica bar has a diner feel to it, and the light fittings look Art Deco. It all feels a bit faded and rough around the edges, which we like.

They cover all bases on the drinks menu, with a Euro 5 cocktail special, which is quick to whip up for the big crowd in attendance from Thursday to Sunday. Thank f*ck for the high ceilings because this place gets rammed - you wait an age at the bar, you have to hustle to get outside for a cig, and don’t even mention the loos, but everyone comes because it gets crazy and ticks all their boxes. Don’t shun it. Just get involved. Oh, and Sunday brunch party. Nuff said.